Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table

Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table is a captivating biographical documentary from 2016 that provides a compelling insight into the life and work of one of America's most influential culinary matriarchs – Ella Brennan.

Offering a comprehensive overview from her early years through her years of developing her own brand, the film provides an intimate portrayal of Brennan. It shines a light on the career of an incredibly exceptional woman who dedicated her life to the culinary industry, telling it with verve and giving it the substance it deserves.

Directed by Leslie Iwakehashi, the film is a blend of well-structured interviews, archival footage, and vibrant animation sequences. From Brennan's beloved siblings to renowned chefs like Daniel Boulud and Emeril Lagasse, and more of Brennan's family, friends, colleagues and admirers, the top-billed cast includes Meg Bickford, Marcelle Bienvenu, and Daniel Boulud.

The film opens with a look into Ella Brennan's formative years and her family's humble beginnings in the Irish Channel of New Orleans. At the young age of 18, she began working at the family-owned Bourbon Street bar, later helping transform it into one of the finest dining establishments in the country – The Brennan's. Moving from the family's roots in their original establishment to Ella's eventual branching out to establish her own famous restaurant – Commander's Palace – is one of the film's key journeys.

Combining verve, talent, and hard work, Ella Brennan revolutionised the American dining experience by introducing elements of hospitality that are now standard. This documentary pays tribute to her lasting legacy among food enthusiasts and professionals by illuminating how Brennan's passion and innovation reshaped the dining and food culture of New Orleans and the wider United States.

Director Iwakehashi stylishly weaves together interviews and vintage footage to trace Ella's steps as she navigates through family tragedy, business struggles, and sweeping changes in the culinary and cultural landscape. The film does an admirable job documenting not only Brennan's personal journey but also the societal contexts and cultural shifts that both shaped her life and was shaped by her.

The star-studded interviewees share their fond memories of Brennan, illustrating how her charisma, shrewd business acumen, and dedication to mentorship made her a giant whose influence permeates the American restaurant industry and beyond. We hear from culinary heavyweights including Boulud and Lagasse, who echo each other in noting Brennan's role in elevating the New Orleans dining scene to international acclaim. We also hear from family members such as her sister Dottie Brennan, who reiterate her determination and resilience despite roadblocks.

Commanding the Table lives up to its lofty title, showcasing its protagonist as an unstoppable force who broke down barriers in a male-dominated industry and set the standard for all who followed after her. Her legacy as an innovator and mentor shines brightly in every engaging and entertaining moment of this film.

Moreover, the film also serves as a love letter to New Orleans cuisine, offering mouth-watering food footage and detailing the evolving food culture of the city. Notably, the film is as much about the importance of fostering a sense of hospitality and friendships in the dining experience as it is about the food.

At the heart of Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table is the portrayal of a formidable woman who knew the value of dining to be more than just the food served. It was equal parts friendship, laughter, community, and a unique experience that she strived to offer. Brennan believed that dining was about creating lasting memories and this belief can be seen in the essence of this film.

Whether you're a dedicated food lover, a professional in the hospitality industry, or a casual diner interested in the story behind one of New Orleans' most legendary figures, Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table provides a universally appealing narrative. It's an intimate portrait of a dynamic, trailblazing woman, whose life, legacy, and lessons continue to ripple across America's culinary landscape.