Take Every Wave: The Life Of Laird Hamilton

Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton is a compelling 2017 biographical documentary film directed by Rory Kennedy. The film showcases the life and career of big wave surfing legend Laird Hamilton, layering together breathtaking footage from the sport with intimate interviews and insights from those who know Hamilton best. The film features appearances from not only Hamilton himself but also other figures deeply ingrained in the surfing community such as Nick Carroll and Darrick Doerner.

Revered by many as the greatest big wave surfer of all time, Laird Hamilton's life has not been a breezy ride. Born in San Francisco but raised in Hawaii, he became accustomed to the thrill and dangers of the surf from a young age. His unconventional and highlight-filled career has seen him write his own rules and constantly skateboard on the edge of human ability, innovation, and controversy. Hamilton is much more than just a surfer, he's an inventor, a stuntman, a model, a producer, a fitness guru, an extreme athlete, a family man, and to some, a pure enfant terrible. This documentary delves into every layer of Hamilton’s complex persona, providing both admirers and critics with an intriguing insight into his influential life.

The film, constructed wonderfully by Kennedy and team, erects a fluid narrative that follows Hamilton's journey from a young surfer to a pioneering force in the big wave surfing community. What’s most captivating about the film is how it acknowledges Hamilton’s impressive athletic accomplishments while simultaneously highlighting his relentlessly innovative approach to the surf. Viewers quickly understand how Hamilton’s unrelenting ambition and dedication not only made him a star in the surfing world, but led to breakthrough changes in the sport itself.

The documentary introduces viewers to Hamilton's rocky childhood and background, starting with his mother's move to Oahu, Hawaii when he was just a toddler. Facing a tumultuous relationship with her volatile boyfriend, they found solace and true belonging when they were taken under the wing of Bill Hamilton, a talented surfboard shaper and surfer himself, who later became Laird's stepfather. The familial dynamics, with all their rough edges and warm moments, set the stage for Laird Hamilton's love affair with the ocean and forged his determination to conquer its immense waves.

The film then traces Hamilton's unconventional rise to fame. His talent as a surfer, combined with his magnetic yet polarizing personality, earned him a place in the spotlight. However, Hamilton chose a different path and turned away from competitive surfing to blaze his own trail. This decision, which shocked the surfing community, allowed him to focus on his passion for big waves – an area less explored, risky, yet profoundly exhilarating.

One of the many standout elements of Take Every Wave is its breathtaking cinematography. The filmmakers weave together stunning archival and contemporary footage that brings to life the true scale of the waves Hamilton took on. These sequences depict not just the thrill of Hamilton's daredevil pursuits, but also the fearsome power of the ocean and the profound skill and agility needed to navigate its most formidable swells. The waves hit hard, and the camera captures every drop of this seething energy. This visual spectacle is matched by captivating and candid interviews, which add layers of depth to Hamilton's persona.

While Laird Hamilton has undoubtedly many admirers, he is no stranger to controversy, both in his professional and personal life. Kennedy does not shy away from exploring these aspects of his personality, providing a balanced and rounded portrayal of Hamilton. This film highlights the complexity of his relationships, delves into the bold commercial decisions he made and their impact on his public image, and discusses the controversies he courted over the years.

Take Every Wave is a landmark film in sporting documentaries. It paints a comprehensive and compelling picture of Laird Hamilton as both a pioneering figure in big wave surfing and as a complex individual. It offers entertainment, inspiration, and food for thought to sports enthusiasts, adventure-seekers, and those who are simply intrigued by the thrills and risks of a life lived on the edges. Whether you're a surfing aficionado, a documentary lover, or someone who enjoys a good human interest story, Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton is a captivating watch.