The Sturgeon Queens

The Sturgeon Queens is a delightful, heartwarming film from 2014 that celebrates the rich and storied history of a beloved family-run business on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. The film is a heartening encapsulation of American immigrant success, wrapped up in the fascinating, hundred-year history of the “Russ & Daughters” shop.

Renowned chef Mario Batali, Anne Russ Federman (one of the eponymous ‘daughters’), and Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg star in this charming, affectionate documentary. It's a journey through decades of familial love, tenacity, and good taste. Batali provides insights about the culinary impact of the century-old deli, Federman offers intimate firsthand accounts of growing up in the family business, and Ginsburg lends weight to the significance of "Russ & Daughters" in the broader context of American immigrant history.

The film beautifully narrates how a humble pushcart start-up by Joel Russ, an immigrant who came from Eastern Europe in the early 1900s, became a widely-renowned gastronomic institution delivering the quintessential New York delicatessen experience. Joel Russ started selling herring from a pushcart and eventually went on to establish the thriving store by 1914. Today, it's not just a store; it's a cherished cultural landmark.

Right from herring to salmon, caviar to bagels, the Russ family knew what it took to make flavorful, high-quality food that resonated with New Yorkers. Starting as a family venture, it broke conventional norms of the time by making Russ's three daughters partners, indicated by the unique "& Daughters" in its name.

This iconic institution played a pivotal role in shaping the burgeoning food trends in New York and came to reflect the city’s vibrancy and its people’s tastes. However, The Sturgeon Queens is not a film that solely dwells on food. It's also about family, resilience, tradition, love, and, most importantly, continuity.

Director Julie Cohen brings forth the phenomenal journey of the two surviving Russ daughters, Hattie Russ Gold and Anne Russ Federman, now into their 100s. Their humorous and touching reflections on the family and the business form the emotional core of the film. Their stories, interspersed with archival photographs and footage, painstakingly convey the efforts and dedication it took to scale new heights.

The film expertly uses the 'talking-heads' approach of documentary storytelling, where the central figures and their customers reminisce about the past, narrate anecdotes, and provide commentary. These are accentuated by playful animations evoking a sense of nostalgia and warmth. Several celebrity patrons and loyal customers, like Supreme Court justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg and 60 Minutes correspondent Morley Safer, also share their fond memories of "Russ & Daughters," solidifying its legendary status.

Despite the passage of generations, what’s captivating is how the Russ family has managed to maintain the traditional feel of the shop. The film effectively captures how the shop continues its legacy of providing the finest quality smoked fish, caviar, baked goods, and specialty foods, winning the hearts of New Yorkers and visitors from around the globe. The attention to craftsmanship, consistency in quality, and dedication to service is what makes this store legendary, and this documentary manages to bring these aspects to life.

All in all, The Sturgeon Queens is not just for gastronomy lovers but for anyone who appreciates stories of grit, determination, and success against the odds. The beauty of the film lies in its simplicity and the way it transports the viewer to an era that vouched on quality, relationship, and family bonds.

While the film can be seen as a tribute to the legendary "Russ & Daughters," it also emerges as an ode to immigrant dreams, female empowerment, and the persevering spirit of small businesses across the world. So, brace yourself for a flavorful trip down memory lane as you witness how a family's hard work and dedication turn a small store into a culinary legend. Such is the magic of The Sturgeon Queens.