Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston

Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston is a captivating and enthralling 2010 documentary fashion film that vividly brings to life one of the fashion industry's most fascinating, yet tragically overlooked figures: American fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick, known simply as Halston. Acclaimed director Whitney Smith offers an intimate look at Halston's remarkable life, examining not just his enduring influence on the fashion industry, but also his struggles behind the scenes that were kept largely hidden from public view.

Halston is renowned for popularizing the Ultrasuede in the 1970s, becoming a fashion trendsetter whose creations addressed the needs of modern women. His minimalistic designs and iconic shirtdress became staples that significantly influenced American fashion. The innovative designer was known for his dramatic and glamorous designs that catapulted him to the pinnacle of the fashion world, making him a favorite among celebrities, socialites, and the international jet-set.

The film presents an exquisitely illustrated and meticulously researched account of Halston's life, underpinned by interviews with individuals who knew Halston best, including his friends, family members, and colleagues. Among the interviewees are socialite Patricia Altschul, stylist Phillip Bloch, and various fashion insiders, each of whom helps to create a polyphonic perspective on Halston's complex character and creative genius.

The film sees Smith journeying into the crux of 1970's American fashion, where Halston ruled. Smith does an amazing job putting together archive footage, exclusive interviews, and daunting tales of Halston to paint a vivid picture of a man who was once the most powerful force in fashion.

Director Smith doesn't shy away from showcasing Halston's vibrant personality, often controversial professional methods, as well as his personal issues, including his escalating drug abuse and battles with his business choices. The film thus gives us a raw, intimate look at the tragic reversal of fortune that would see Halston's own name and brand being taken out of his control.

Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston also delves into the cultural changes that took place during Haltson's celebrated career. The film provides viewers an expressive look into the Studio 54 era, defined by ostentatious wealth, mass hedonism, a new wave of pop culture, and high-profile events. Smith uses this larger cultural context as a background which places Halston's narrative into a broader historical and sociocultural frame, making it not just a movie about a fashion icon, but also about an era-defining time in modern history.

Just as vital as the archival material, expert interviews, and cultural contextualization are the reams of footage of Halston’s designs. Viewers are treated to beautiful sequences showcasing a wealth of Halston's designs, each one emblematic of his subtle elegance and revolutionary creativity. The clothes’ timeless appeal and the designer’s profound influence are brought home by sequences showing modern-day fashionistas waxing lyrical about his enduring influence and legacy in the contemporary world of fashion.

In telling this story, Smith maintains a balanced approach, displaying Halston’s glamour and brilliance without glossing over his debauched lifestyle, his problems with drugs and his tumultuous career. As such, the film seems an authentic chronicle of Halston's life, neither sanitized nor scandalized, but presented honestly and with great respect.

Thanks to its artful blending of personal, professional, and cultural narratives, Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston is more than a portrait of a fashion icon. It's a rich, layered exploration of a dynamic era that was profoundly influenced by its fashion, and by a designer who defined elegance and simplicity for a generation.

Exquisitely photographed and passionately assembled, Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston is a must-watch for fashion enthusiasts and for those who are captivated by intriguing stories about the icons of the past, their incredible highs, devastating lows, and enduring impacts.