Women He's Undressed

Women He's Undressed is an engrossing 2015 documentary that offers a behind-the-scenes look into the life of the legendary and pioneering costume designer Orry-Kelly, a largely unsung hero of Hollywood's Golden Age. The film is directed by Gillian Armstrong and stars Ann Roth, Jane Fonda, and Marc Eliot.

This film starts by taking us back to the humble beginnings of Orry Kelly in Kiama, New South Wales, Australia. Kelly was an ambitious young man who moved to America in the 1920s, settling in New York where he first dipped his toes in the world of film. With creativity running through his veins, he eventually made his mark as a costume designer, styling unforgettable looks for some of Hollywood's most iconic stars.

The documentary reveals the impact Kelly had on the film industry, designing for an impressive 282 films during his career and dressing stars as famous and varied as Bette Davis, Marilyn Monroe, Rosalind Russell and Katharine Hepburn. He has numerous awards to his name, and his influence, while often overlooked, was vital in incurring the rise of costume design as an essential cog in the film-making machine.

Woven through the narrative are interviews with those who knew him and those who admired him. Oscar-winning costume designers Ann Roth adds insightful comments about his influence on the industry, while renowned actress Jane Fonda discusses the role of fashion in the cinematic world and the indelible impact of Orry-Kelly's costume design.

Historian and author Marc Eliot also chimes in, providing background on the Hollywood system of that era and how Kelly managed to excel in a competitive environment. These interviews, among others, provide a unique dimension to the narrative, giving the audience a thorough understanding of the context in which Kelly worked, and just how groundbreaking his work was.

Throughout the documentary, we delve into Kelly’s personal life, his relationships, his struggles, and his triumphs. Although Kelly had a successful career, his life wasn't without controversy and hardship. The film doesn't shy away from these aspects, with Armstrong striving to present a comprehensive portrait of Kelly, warts and all. It touches upon his reported relationship with Archibald Leach (who later became known as Cary Grant), his battle with alcoholism, his encounters with the Hollywood moguls, the McCarthy blacklisting, and his eventual triumph.

What makes Women He's Undressed special is the way the documentary combines deep research with an engaging narrative style, making it equally appealing to lovers of cinema, fashion, and history. It showcases the costumes in glorious detail and gives a vivid sense of how integral they were in crafting a film’s identity and a character’s persona.

Armstrong has creatively used dramatized sequences, featuring Darren Gilshenan as Orry Kelly, to depict key moments from Kelly's life. These dramatizations are interestingly done, directed and shot with a stylized glamour that resembles the classic Hollywood feel, bringing Kelly's story to life and, subtly reflecting his creativity.

Women He's Undressed is an intriguing exploration of the life of one of Hollywood's greatest costume designers. Armstrong's remarkable storytelling combined with the charismatic and influential persona of Orry-Kelly presents an enjoyable and emotional journey into an often overlooked aspect of the film industry, costume design.

This documentary is not just a tribute to Orry-Kelly but to all costume designers whose creativity and talent help tell the story, define the characters, and transform the actors into the roles they play. Through Orry-Kelly's story, we understand the power and importance of costume design, and we celebrate a man who had an outsize influence on that profession -- a man whose work continues to inspire today.